I am starting off this article with an expression of deep and genuine gratitude to the kind (and funny!) tPFer @duggi, who not only sent me a link to the Hermès 2020 universal Registration document (including its annual financial Year Report) (all of which I am calling “The Report” for ease and clarity) and suggested that I write about it, he also started a wonderful and interesting TPF thread summarizing it. because his work is the original, I am linking it here. any paraphrasing or similar wording presented in this article is unintentional (and has his express permission, anyway, because there’s only so many ways you can say something).
Summary of Hermès 2020
The report starts off with highlights of the year. The story seems to be that the first half of Hermès’ financial Year was terrible, with recovery starting in the second half of the year and gaining steam by the 4th quarter. A strong recovery is well underway due to the large gains at the end of the year. overall worldwide sales were down, though relatively minimally.
Consolidated revenue reached €6,389 million (or … €6,389,000,000. I think using the term “million” is confusing when it’s actually 6 billion plus.). This was down 6-7% over 2019, presumably due to the pandemic. Sales recovered in the second half of 2020, with sales in the 4th quarter up 16%. The revenue generated for the year overall was down only 2%, with 4th quarter revenue up 21%. Of note, “wholesale activities” were down by a whopping 32%, and the context indicates this was largely due to the drop-off of airport duty-free sales (no surprise there, except one might think it could have been even worse!).
Por región:
Asia sales (excluding Japan, and most specifically greater China, Korea and Australia) were by far the strongest, up 14% for 2020 (which includes growth by an incredible 47% in the 4th quarter alone), and were fairly strong through the 2nd half of the year, both in stores and online.
All other regions were hit due to the pandemic:
Japan’s sales decreased -4%
America -21% (although it did grow slightly in the 4th quarter)
Europe excluding France -20%
France -29%
This was all due mainly to lockdowns, store shutdowns and lack of tourism.
By métier:
Leather goods and Saddlery was -5% for 2020, but again +18% in the 4th quarter. two production shops will be opening in 2021, another in 2022, a fourth in 2023 and yet a fifth in 2024. all of these sites will be in France.
RTW and accessories -9% (+12% in the 4th quarter).
Silk and textiles -23% and Perfumes and beauty -19%, again due to lack of travel and tourism.
Watches +2% for the year (+28% in the 4th quarter).
The remaining departments were consolidated and +28% (+56% in the 4th quarter), mainly due to the success of the home and jewelry departments.
In 2020 Hermès grew its workforce by 1,183 people, most of that growth coming from the purchase of one of its suppliers. jobs and salaries were maintained, with a €1,250 benefit to be given to all group employees in 2021.
From page 26 of the annual Report: 1.5 key financial Figures. A more detailed chart of consolidated financial data detailing the highlights above follows this.
What follows next are overviews of the history of Hermès; its governance; strategy (creation; craftsmanship; vertical integration of materials; its exclusive distribution network specifically tailored to each sales outlet [whether boutique or website] and aimed at fostering its relationships with customers and enhancing their experiences with the brand; entrepreneurial spirit [individual boutique autonomy with regards to inventory and purchases at the biannual podium]; independence, both economic and financial; and responsible growth); an organization chart; bienes raíces; and the financial charts.
Now we get to the good stuff: highlights from the various mètiers, starting with our favorite:
1.6.1 leather goods & Saddlery (page 26)
This includes all bags, briefcases, luggage, small leather goods, diaries and writing objects, saddles, bridles and all the equestrian items, including clothing. This mètier accounts for 50% of sales and in 2020 it “generated €3,209 million in revenue”.
1.6.1.1 Women’s Bags
The report highlighted new bag offerings in the women’s department, including the Della Cavalleria, the new Drag, the Chaîne d’Ancre bag and the Cabassellier; the latest iteration of the Birkin, the Birkin Cargo; bags that can be carried in a variety of ways, including the In the Loop, the Émile Hermès bag, and the small 24/24; a new evening bag, the Minuit au Faubourg, a new space-themed version of the Sac á Malice; and using new materials on or with established classics, such as hand-painted Birkins and Kellys, embroidery on the Roulis Mini, the Constance Marble Silk, and the Kellywood Bag, which includes both Oak and Barenia.
Hermès Epsom mini Della Cavalleria Bleu Zanzibar
via Fashionphile
$8,235
Cargo Birkin.photo via Christies.com.
Space-themed Sac á Malice bag. photo via MadisonAvenueCouture.com
Kellywood Bag. photo via Christies.com.
1.6.1.2 Men’s Bags (page 27)
It also discusses an expansion of the men’s bag offerings, including a Steve Light Junior, a compact version of the Flash messenger 29, and a second Side bag, which is meant to be worn very close to the body (I imagine it will be great for subway travel). Emphasizing the use of light and supple leathers – and now this is the part where my heart truly flutters, because within this relatively sedate discussion on mens bags I read this:
The Hermès financial report gets a little spicy!
¡Asi que! It looks like we can expect the return of the Kelly relax (even though I’m not into large bags, I’ve always really liked the proportions of the larger Kellys). even more up my alley are these intriguing western-themed versions of the HAC and the Sac à Dépèches, which I personally CANNOT wait to see.
Steve Light Junior messenger Bag.
Second Side Bag.
1.6.1.3 accessories and small leather Goods
As for SLGs, the report briefly touches on the Constance and Kelly “To Go” and the Constance and Roulis Slim wallets; a Chaîne d’Ancre collection of items to be held on their own or attached to a strap; the Zipengo and the H-Tag lines; the Paddock Purse; the Carré Pocket; the Silky Pocket; bag charms which are miniaturized versions of other Hermès objects, such as the Oran Nano and Carré Nano; and the leather accessories meant to go with the items in the Beauty mètier.
Hermès Evercolor Roulis Slim wallet rose Azalee
via Fashionphile
$3,865
Carré Nano Charm. photo via Hermes.com.
1.6.1.4 Materials
Under this heading, the report mentions the new colors, such as rose Mexico, rose Texas, Bleu Brume, Foin, Vert Maquis, Sesame and Bleu Frida, newer printing techniques like Toile H en relief, new textiles like Casaque and Woolywooly, and a new leather called Dandy Calfskin for SLGs.
Photo via @The_Notorious_Pink.
Then we skip over to –
1.6.2 ready to wear and accessories (page 28)
“The Ready-to-wear and accessories métier is the Hermès Group’s second largest sector, representing 22% of consolidated sales. In 2020, it generated €1,409 million in revenue.”
1.6.2.1 Women’s ready to Wear
The theme for 2020 women’s ready-to-wear was an exploration of “modern femininity”. Womenswear designer Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski’s Spring/Summer line included useful details and traditional Hermès patterns and motifs. utilizing fluid materials, the pieces were meant for “urban and everyday use”. The Fall/Winter line centered around the ideas of the themes of the suit, the outdoors and the kilt and focused on a slim, but comfortable and functional silhouette.
1.6.2.2 Men’s ready to Wear
Reflecting the 2020 theme of innovation, Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of Hermès’ “Men’s Universe”, also utilized fluid materials for Spring/Summer, adding bits of color to the traditionally muted men’s palette. The Fall/Winter line was more divergent (the report calls it “radicalism”), with atypical plays on volume and color.
1.6.2.3 fashion Accessories
1.6.2.3.1 jewelry Accessories
Highlights from the fashion jewelry department include the two aluminum cuffs, – one done with Médor studs like the Collier de Chien, and the other with the perforated H of the Evelyne, each produced in bold colors – and the Clic H enamel bracelet with the pattern continuing across the H closure. There were also new lines of leather and of horn jewelry, both based on equestrian themes.
Various Aluminum Sunset Cuffs currently available at Hermes.com. Gotta warn you, the sizing can be tricky on these.
Hermès 18K White Gold diamond Alchimie very large bracelet SH
via Fashionphile
$83,500
New Clic Enamel bracelets currently available at Hermes.com.
1.6.2.3.2 Belts
New pieces in the women’s belt department included enamel buckles, new colors and designs (such as embroidery) for the straps, and the addition of pockets or studs. Men’s belts added a patterned strap and – this is news to me – a new mechanism which enables a buckle to accommodate both the 32mm and the 38mm straps.
A fun men’s belt buckle. photo via Hermes.com.
1.6.2.3.5 The Internet of Things
2020 saw the addition of the Apple watch Hermès series 6, including the new Hermès Attelage model with a redesigned buckle, new strap colors, and added Hermès Circulaire dials for watch face customization.
Series 6 case & Band Apple watch Hermes double tour 40 mm Attelage. photo via Hermes.com.
1.6.2.3.6 Shoes
Pierre Hardy, who directs both the women’s and the men’s shoe métiers (as well as the fine jewellery collections), added jeweled heels (including rhinestones or lacquer) for women and new materials (mesh; transparent rubber; cord) for both women and men and an emphasis on rugged soles for the fall/winter season.
Women’s Pump with Chaîne d’Ancre heel. photo via Platform-Mag.com.
1.6.3 Silk and Textiles
This is the 3rd largest department for Hermès,representar el 7% de las ventas y generar € 452 millones en ingresos en 2020.
1.6.3.1 Seda femenina
“Este año es realmente un año de innovación para la seda femenina, que marca el evento con un desarrollo importante en la historia de la seda: por primera vez, Hermès presenta una bufanda de doble cara impresa de manera diferente en ambos lados. Un logro técnico que requirió años de desarrollo en colaboración con las impresoras de la casa en Lyon “.
Otros aspectos destacados de la seda femenina incluyen el Voltigeur Cavalcadour 3D, Exposition Universelle, (ambos asienten el tema de la innovación), la simple bufanda de cachemir de doble cara con bolsillos y un poncho con un cierre de lock Kelly.
Cavalcadour Voltigeur. Foto a través de Hermès.
Exposición Universelle por Jan Bajtlik. Foto a través de Hermes.com.
1.6.3.2 Seda para hombres (página 30)
Esta sección también destacó las ofertas de doble cara de los hombres, como C’est La Fête y Formule Chic. Y de nuevo, más información que incluso yo no sabía:
“La innovación también se refleja en la bufanda rêve hipnotique. Este motivo es un “marco de congelación” de un trabajo digital, inspirado en biología y compuesto de remolinos de colores en movimiento. Proyectado en lugares prestigiosos de todo el mundo, en forma de una instalación inmersiva, este trabajo fue fotografiado, grabado y luego impreso en los talleres de Lyon para convertirse en la bufanda clásica de Carré “.
La bufanda de hombres Hipnotique Rêve. Foto a través de Hermes.com.
El departamento de seda masculino ha seguido expandiéndose con el éxito. Además, los lazos utilizaron el relieve (ya sea el enlace Chaîne d’Ancre o un estribo), el denim Trompe-l’œil y la seda cepillada con cuero.
H Marin Leather Patch Detalle la corbata. Foto a través de Hermes.com.
1.6.4 Otros sectores
Estos sectores incluyen joyas finas, productos para el hogar y vajilla, y representan el 10% de los ingresos, aproximadamente € 643 millones para 2020.
Otras cosas interesantes a tener en cuenta del informe
1.4.3 Red de distribución
Hay 29 boutiques corporativas y 7 concesionarios en los Estados Unidos … el mismo número que hay en Japón (páginas 21-22).
Si bien hay 306 ubicaciones, 85 de ellas son concesionarios (ubicaciones de ventas que no son boutiques corporativas de Hermès). Hay 16 concesionarios en Francia, 8 en Corea del Sur, 7 en los Estados Unidos, 7 en Japón, 4 en Italia, 3 en China continental, 3 en Taiwán, 2 cada uno en el Reino Unido y Suiza, 1 cada uno en Australia, Canadá, Dinamarca (Ubicación de Copenhague), Malasia, Países Bajos, Tailandia y Turquía. Los concesionarios son los únicos puntos de venta para Austria (ambos lugares), Bahrein, Chile, Indonesia, Kazajstán, Kuwait, Líbano, Luxemburgo, Noruega, Qatar (2 ubicaciones), Panamá, Filipinas, EAU (5 ubicaciones) y Vietnam (2 ubicaciones).
Sin embargo, como se ha discutido en numerosas ocasiones en Purseforum, estos números reflejan una disminución en el número de concesionarios proporcionales al número de boutiques corporativas:
1.5.3.4 Cambio en el número de tiendas Hermès exclusivas, de la página 25 del informe.
Sección 2, páginas 47-217, la sección más grande del informe, se ocupa completamente de la responsabilidad social corporativa, con respecto a todo, desde el desarrollo de los empleados y el bienestar hasta los socios y las comunidades locales, el planeta, la sostenibilidad y la ética.
2.4.1.3 Petit H opera según los materiales disponibles e involucra a todos los Métiers. Alrededor de 200 piezas diferentes al año son únicas, con unos cientos de artículos más en una producción muy limitada (p.113)
2.4.1.1.4 Hay más de 1000 líneas de servicio diferentes. Hubo más de 123,000 solicitudes de reparación en 2020. Hubo 80,000 reparaciones locales (no francosas); El 29% de ellos estaban en artículos de cuero y fueron manejados por 33 artesanos de cuero. (p.114)
2.4.1.1.5 “Hermès se ha establecido el objetivo de no destruir nuevos productos destinados a la venta, particularmente para la ropa, para 2022” (p.114)
2.4.2.2.1 Hermès usa más de 35 tipos diferentes de cuero. “T